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Your wedding photography will provide a long-lasting remembrance of one of the happiest days of your life. The right professional photographer should deliver a complete selection of photographs that tell the full story of your day. To help select your professional photographer, keep these thoughts in mind: Hire a professional, don’t trust your wedding memories to a friend with a camera. Interview as many photographers and review as many wedding albums as you can to find the style you like. Reserve your photographer as early as possible. The best photographers tend to be booked months in advance.

Ask the following questions:

Most importantly, view his or her photographs. See if you like the style of photography and you seem to interact well with the possible photographer. Book as early as possible, some popular dates go quickly.

Your wedding photos are the most lasting remembrance of the event and that makes them very important to every couple. You've heard horror stories about weddings ruined by the photographer stepping all over the ceremony or taking really awful pictures. Relax...bad wedding photographers do exist, but they are the exception.

Most wedding photographers get a lot of business by brides recommending the person or company who took their wedding pictures - the ones that don't get word of mouth referrals are soon out of business. Still, you do want to spend the time to make sure you're hiring someone who will work with you and for you. If you're planning a budget-conscious event, you may be looking for ways to cut costs on the photography. Many couples have friends or relatives step in to take professional looking wedding pictures. Check out advice for the wedding couple and have a look at the do-it-yourself tips, tricks and tutorials and hints to help you find a top notch professional wedding photographer online or in your area...

Let's begin with some helpful advice on the best way to schedule your special day to get the most out of your photographer.

When deciding on the best times for ceremony and reception, most brides do not take into consideration the time that the photographer needs to take your wedding pictures between the end of the ceremony and beginning of the reception. You’ll be spending a lot of money on your wedding photographer so you’ll want to make sure you make time for him! For example, a common situation is to have the ceremony scheduled from 2:00 - 3:00pm with the reception starting at 3:30pm. THIS IS A NIGHTMARE FOR MOST WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHERS, especially if the ceremony and reception are in two different locations. Even if they’re not, this still leaves very little room for the much needed time it takes to obtain some really special portraits of the two of you. A much better schedule is to have the ceremony from 2:00pm – 3:00pm with the reception starting at 5:00 or even 6:00pm. If you’re fortunate enough to find a photographer that gives you unlimited coverage with your package, then you can space the events out as much as you feel comfortable and won’t have to worry about paying your photographer anything extra. Not that it would take that long to get the shots he wants, but why rush it? Your day and your wedding photography will be much more relaxed and memorable if you space things out and allow yourself to enjoy every aspect of the day, including your unrushed photo shoot.

There are several factors that should be considered when selecting a photographer for a wedding. When comparing and interviewing photography companies, one of the most important factors in your decision should be whether the photographer can show you more than one COMPLETE wedding and not just a few of the best photographs taken from several weddings. This is VERY important and can be hard to come by, but you should NOT settle for less! Anyone can snap hundreds of pictures at an all day event and be fairly certain that a small percentage of them will be good. Ask your prospective photographer to see ALL of the photos from more than one wedding, not just a selection of his best work . If you look at ALL of the images from 3 or 4 complete weddings and you are impressed, then you can be certain that he/she is a professional wedding photographer and not just a "moonlighter" that gets lucky on a few shots here and there. This is the true test of an exceptional professional photographer! You’ll be spending a lot of money on your wedding photography, so make sure you KNOW what you’re buying

What Are You Buying?

 

Before you go out to meet with photographers, you need to know what you are buying:

Pre-wedding Portraits (optional)

The pre-wedding portraits can be engagement portraits of the bride and groom (often used for newspaper announcements), or a  in her wedding gown (often displayed at the reception).

Posed and Candid Shots

These are the actual exposures that will be taken at the wedding - some posed, some candids. These will be produced into proofs for your review and some will be chosen to be touched up and mounted into your wedding album.

The Wedding Album

The albums are usually large leather albums that may be white, off-white, pink, brown or black. The photos are permanently mounted in the albums. You can have the outside cover engraved with your names and wedding date and you may or may not have a picture mounted in the front cover.

Extra Pictures

You may want to order extra pictures (and albums for that matter) for parents, grandparents, attendants, etc.

Terminology
 
 

35mm cameras - Those familiar and widely available cameras used by professional and amateur photographers. These cameras are not recommended for wedding photography because their small negative size is not good for enlargements.

 
 

Candids - Those pictures that are not posed.

 
 

- A formal portrait of the bride in her wedding gown.

 
 

Engagement Portrait - An informal posed picture of you and your fiancé.

 
 

Exposures - Each time the photographer clicks the camera - usually 150 to 200 times.

 
 

Medium-format Cameras - The negative size (usually 2 1/4" x 2 1/4") is larger than a 35mm thus making enlargements clearer. Prints usually have more contrast, depth and warmer colors.

 
 

Prints - The enlarged and retouched proofs which are placed into the wedding album. Typical sizes are 5 x 7, 8 x 8, 8 x 10 and 10 x 10.

 
 

Proofs - The development of the exposures which are usually 5 x 5 pictures that are unretouched. Prints are chosen from these proofs.

Editor's Note: This article is intended to give you some tips on how to take better pictures at a wedding where you might be a guest. It is not intended as a complete lesson on Wedding Photography for the professional wedding photographer. Here's why...

Professional wedding photography is a demanding photographic discipline. For example, in the regular NYI Complete Course in Professional Photography, the student studies the printed NYI lesson on Wedding Photography, listens to three hours of audiotape, and watches two videotapes - all devoted to wedding photography. We use several renown wedding photos as mentors including Monte Zucker, perhaps the best-known wedding photographer and teacher in the world! What's more, if the student wants to go on and specialize in wedding photography and become a professional wedding photographer, he or she is given additional texts to read, additional audiotapes to listen to, and also special training in the business of wedding photography - plus a complete Wedding Forms Kit that enables the student to start a wedding-photography business - plus the student has to mail in special Wedding Photo Projects that provide practice in the art of wedding photography and demonstrate the student's skill. Objective: To train the student so that he or she is fully prepared to get into the business of wedding photography...and succeed!

Why are so many students willing to take this specialized extra training? Because they know that many top-level professional wedding photographers make a profit of $2,000 or more on every wedding they shoot. The arithmetic is easy. If the wedding photographer can book 35 weddings a year and clear $2,000 on each of them, that's $70,000 income for about 40 days of work, mostly on Saturdays. Not bad!

 

Wedding Photography - Tips for How to Photograph a Wedding

I have a lot of visitors to my site that are amateur photographers interested in learning wedding photography and want wedding photography tips. I have been surprised at how many wedding photographers have submitted questions in my section.

Some of the questions I have received:

  • What equipment should I use to photograph weddings? Or, do you have any 35mm wedding tips?
  • What digital camera do you use to photograph weddings?
  • What exposure should I use for a candlelight wedding? Or, what are wedding low light camera settings?
  • How to photograph a candlelit procession?
  • What are the largest prints that can be made from 35mm film?
  • What lenses work the best for wedding photography?
  • What film do you recommend for photographing weddings?
  • What type of digital camera should I buy?
  • How do I avoid harsh shadows when taking outdoor pictures?
  • What is the best camera for wedding photography?
  • Should I use a filter during wedding photography?
  • What books are best for beginning Wedding Photography?
  • Do you show your digital pictures at the wedding reception, for the guests to choose the photos they want?
  • Links to other wedding photography FAQ's on the web.

However, it seems like the question that sums everything up, is, "My friend has asked me to photograph their wedding, do you have any advice for me?"

The first bit of advice I have for people in that situation is to hire a professional wedding photographer. Whether you hire the photographer for the bride and groom, or, give them a monetary gift and recommend several photographers for them to choose from - details don't matter. Just do it. By hiring a good professional you will have:

  • Better photos of their wedding
  • A much more enjoyable wedding day for yourself
  • Many more hours of free time
  • Much less stress in your life
  • Your friend will remain a friend

However, chances are, if you are looking for wedding photography tips, you've already decided to do it and aren't interested in me (a wedding photographer), giving advice that seems somewhat biased.

If that is the case, this page contains my honest advice on how to get the best results taking wedding pictures. You'll need to plan on spending hours upon hours preparing for your first wedding (taking test photos, learning your camera, studying web sites) and I would also suggest you buy a few books (I've written some reviews of some of the wedding photography books that are currently available - and given recommendations one which book I think would be most helpful for you - at the bottom of the page).

Keep in mind that sometimes I am rather emphatic, using the words MUST, DO NOT, and NEED TO. Read with an open mind and you'll see that the advice I give is very reasonable.

Wedding Photography Tips - How to Photograph a Wedding as an Amateur

  • Make sure you, and your friend, understand what you are getting into. Not only that, but make sure expectations are VERY, very low. That way, if something goes wrong there will not be hurt feelings. If your photos do not turn out as good as they could have - you will still hopefully have a friend. If they are expecting snap shot quality images - they won't be disappointed in snap shot quality images.
  • Write up a Letter of Agreement. I've been using the word "realize" quite a bit - and will use it some more. You must realize and be cognizant of the fact that your friend can sue you if something goes wrong. Once your friend is married, their loyalty will be (and should be) primarily to their spouse. You never know what will happen to a friendship. Take the time to write up a document, title it a "letter of agreement", and clearly spell out the requirements of both parties. Make it as complex or simple as you like, just be sure to include a paragraph that says your friend understands you are not a professional wedding photographer, cannot guarantee to provide any specific photo, and are not responsible for any loss of coverage for any reason. Even WITH that phrase in the letter that is signed by yourself and your friend you can STILL be sued. However, with that phrase you should be much safer!
  • Realize that wedding photography is expensive. Not only will you easily spend 30 hours of time on the project, but several hundred dollars as well. Even if you stick with the basics: fresh batteries for ALL equipment, professional film (twice as much as needed), and quality processing - you can easily spend close to $500. If you purchase books and spend other time practicing - the price goes up. Also, think about the reprints. Who will handle those? If you are shooting film, will the prints be numbered or will you have to do that? Reprints can take a lot of time.
  • You MUST practice your lighting and exposures. You will have a hard time making excuses for bad exposure in the wedding pictures. It won't sound right to simply say "the church was dark", or, "my flash was acting up." Do whatever it takes to go to the venues and take sample photos before the wedding. Write down all your photo exposure information (especially if you are using 35mm equipment to photograph the wedding). If you are using digital the information is usually recorded in the camera. Review all the photos, then WRITE DOWN the settings that work best and take that paper with you to the wedding. Make sure you use those settings.
    • I remember a time when I was just getting started in wedding photography and was using 35mm equipment. I went to the church facility on a Wednesday night to take some test photos. After the film was back, I was shocked to see how dark the stage was. I went back and took another set of test photos and was blown away to realize that: my camera meter, light meter, and eye were ALL off from what the actual images recorded. I am so glad I took the test photos in the first place - and that I went back and did more experimenting when the first batch were off. I had never before, or since then, seem the same situation (where my light meter, camera meter, and eye were all off) and still don't know what in the world happened that caused the photos to be dark (and no, it wasn't the processing - because normal images were mixed into that roll - and I had the same results when I went back for the next test shoot).
    • However, keep in mind that there are still little details that can make or break your exposures. Sunshine streaming through a window, or, a cloudy day can all make differences. Or, you could experience a slight technical issue with your equipment. A perfect example of that happened to me several years ago. I was photographing the procession from near the front of the church. As the grandparents came in I took their picture - but didn't think my flash "sounded" or looked like it had fired as much as it should have for the proper exposure. The interesting thing was that it HAD fired. I quickly began troubleshooting and found out the flash shoe had slid back the tiniest bit in its holder and was not fully synchronized with the camera - EVEN though it was still firing. The photo of the grandparents came out underexposed - BUT, because I noticed something was wrong and fixed it, the rest of the wedding procession (including the wedding party) turned out perfect.
  • You MUST fully know your equipment and have backup equipment ready to use. One camera is not enough. One lens is not enough. One flash is not enough. Fifteen rolls of film are not enough. Surely you get the idea? Simply borrowing, and bringing along with you, a spare camera will not work. You must know how to use it. Make sure all your equipment works and that you have fresh batteries (and lots of spares) on hand. Ask yourself if you would be able to shoot the entire wedding with your backup camera setup - and whether the bride and groom would be pleased with the photos. If you are using film, bring twice as much as you think you will need.
  • If you are shooting film, do NOT have it processed at a drugstore or discount store. Film can be damaged, destroyed, and lost. You need to take the film somewhere (preferably a professional lab) that has a good track record and will lessen the chance of loss. In fact, you should probably shoot with both cameras throughout the day, and process both sets of film at different photo labs to minimize chances of loss. Sounds kind of paranoid, doesn't it? These are all very reasonable precautions to take - and underscore the importance of what you are planning to do. If this sounds like too much work or hassle, please refer to my previous advice and hire a professional. I have had personal, family snapshots lost and damaged at consumer labs, discount stores, and even large discount warehouse stores. Even labs that cost more and have a better track record (semipro stores would be similar to a Wolf Camera) are not as safe as true, professional labs. The drawback to using a safe, professional lab is often the cost, it can easily cost $25-$30 to have a single roll of 35mm processed and printed. However, no one ever said wedding photography was cheap.
  • Spend as much time as possible preparing for, and practicing, before the wedding. Buy books that deal with wedding photography (Wedding Photography Art, Business, and Style by Steve Stint is good; otherwise, go to Amazon.com and search for the term "wedding photography"). Take the book out and do practice photo sessions. Not including the time I spent learning photography up to the point of my first wedding, I easily spent 120 hours getting ready for that wedding.
  • Consider having a "backup" photographer taking snap shots throughout the day. This is a touchy bit of advice and must be handled carefully. You don't need several photographers taking hundred's of pictures throughout the day and getting into each others way. However, it would be nice to know that some images are being captured by someone else through the day on a separate camera. Some people might have a friend work as their "assistant" and might loan the friend their "backup" camera to use during the day. Or, you might ask a friend who has a camera to shoot one, or maybe two, rolls of film throughout the day. On the other hand, if you know guests will have cameras and be taking pictures throughout the wedding, you might not need to ask any one in particular to shoot some film for you.
  • Be VERY careful how you track and manage the exposed film and/or digital memory cards. At one of my weddings I changed rolls of film during the procession. When shooting film at a wedding you must constantly watch the film counter and be aware of where you are at. Most rolls of professional 35mm film have 36 exposures. If the procession is about to start and you're on #33 - you are setting yourself up for a problem. As it is, I had been watching my counter and was shooting more than usual for the procession. Since I had attended the rehearsal I knew I had some time in-between the flower girls/ring bearer and the bride. So, during that time I changed film (good thing I had spare film in my pocket - something else that is very important on wedding day: always have spare film and/or memory cards in your pocket, there will be times that you need to change and are away from your camera bag). After changing film and carefully putting the exposed roll into my opposite pocket (for me, unexposed goes in the right pocket, exposed stuff in the left - which is primarily covered by my battery pack - so it's easy to put in but harder to get out), I moved to the back of the church and continued photography. During the ceremony my assistant and I transferred the film to the "exposed" bag and checked our roll numbers. We found a roll of exposed film missing. I knew it was the roll from up front but had no idea what happened to it. I had to keep photographing the wedding ceremony despite being VERY concerned about that roll of film. As soon as the ceremony was over I headed up to the spot I had been at for the procession and didn't see anything. As my heart sank a couple caught my attention and held out a roll of film, saying, "We saw this fall off the chair as you headed for the back and thought you might need it." I thanked them, and breathed a huge sigh of relief.
    • Digital is especially easy to lose because so many images can fit on one card. I've heard of wedding photographers losing ALL of the images from a wedding because their cards were stolen or lost in an airport security checkpoint.
    • After shooting a film wedding, the film doesn't leave my site or person until I'm safely home. Even then, I treat them like gold.
    • For digital weddings, I carefully track my exposed memory cards and, as soon as a card is shot, I download the images to a portable hard disk. That way, if my cards were lost or stolen I would still have the images on the portable hard disk.
  • And, in conclusion, to answer the questions at the beginning of the document:
    • What equipment should I use to photograph weddings?
      • Use professional 35mm equipment or better. Make sure you know how to use your equipment. There is no particular brand that is required. The important thing is that you know how to use your gear and can take good pictures with it.
      • When I started photographing weddings I had a Nikon N90s (with the extended grip/battery holder), a SB-26 flash, and a few lenses. I carried an old (but reliable), manual Nikon camera as a backup camera and would put a few rolls of film through that one as well. Over time, I added new lenses, another camera body, another flash unit, and additional wedding photography books (usually a book or two before each wedding).
    • What digital camera do you use to photograph weddings?
      • I use the Nikon D1x. I went fully digital in March of 2002. The camera does a fantastic job, and I have only discovered a few challenges:

        • No compensation to recover blown highlights (Canon cameras can pull an extra 2 f-stops if the image is overexposed and it was shot in RAW format – Nikon cannot). In fact, this was somewhat misleading when I purchased the camera. I was under the impression that I would be able to recover some of the highlights by using the advanced RAW features in Nikon Capture.
        • Small buffer and slow writes (takes 10-15 seconds to save a compressed RAW image – only has a 6 shot RAW buffer). In order to switch between compressed RAW images (4 megabyte file and 13 seconds to save) and uncompressed RAW images (8 megabyte file size and 5 seconds to save) - there must not be any shots currently in the buffer. I switch back and forth at weddings between compressed and uncompressed and have to think ahead.
        • Since I wrote the review, Nikon came out with a buffer upgrade. I had the buffer upgraded ($250) and it now shoots 21 JPG's or 14 RAW images. My only concern with the increased buffer size is the random memory card error - which, if I didn't notice the buffer was jammed, would cause me to shoot the entire buffer of images and then realize it was jammed and have to lose all the images in the buffer. So far, that has not happened at a wedding and I have appreciated the 14 shot buffer (occasionally maxing it out or coming close to it).
        • Automatic white balance is somewhat spotty (I manually set the WB in all wedding photos after the wedding in Nikon Capture - that takes about 2 hours). If the white balance was more accurate to begin with, I probably wouldn't have to both with that extra step. Also, a lot of photographers don't do much post-wedding image correction until the couple chooses their actual images - if I were to do that it would also save me quite a bit of time.
      • I’ve heard that the S2 is the best value on the market and delivers the absolute best out-of-camera images. However, because of the lightweight body, I’ve also heard that it cannot be used with shutter speeds below 1/125. That would be a real problem for me – since I often shoot at 1/30 ~ 1/60. If I were in the market for a digital camera at this point I would be very tempted to buy two D100’s or two S2's (instead of one D1x). I would do a lot of research before making a purchase.

      • At this point, I’m using my D1x and carrying a Canon Digital Rebel and a Nikon F100 with film as a backup. The Canon Rebel was purchased by my brother as his personal camera, and I rent/borrow the camera from him when I have a wedding.

      • For detailed information about digital cameras, visit www.dpreview.com and www.steves-digicams.com

    • What exposure should I use for a candlelight wedding?
      • Practice ahead of time. Learn how to use your camera's meter and take a reading to find out the proper exposure. It will vary depending upon how many candles are lit and whether there is any additional ambient light nearby. Practice at your own house (or the church) ahead of time. Obviously, an 800 speed film, a good tripod, and a nice lens (with an aperture of at least 2.8, but preferably 1.4) will also make a difference.
    • Any tips on photographing a candlelit procession?
      • There almost isn't any way to conveniently get great photos in dim lighting during a candlelit procession. Some ideas for things to try:
        • Sometimes they will have the lights on during the procession and then dim them for the ceremony.
        • You could stand on one side of the aisle, put a 3'x5' sheet of white (glossy) posterboard on the opposite side of the aisle, set your flash to bounce sideways, and hit the posterboard. It'll look odd to have a sheet of posterboard over there, but the results should be beautiful.
        • You could always try a dim-light shoot (make sure you practice in advance with the same lighting conditions). You might need to bump the ISO as high as possible (even if it's grainy), shoot wide open (perhaps buy a 50mm F1.4 lens) and do a natural light shot.
        • If the ceiling is fairly low (and white), you could bounce off of it.
        • You could buy another 550ex and set it up on the opposite side of the aisle and flash with that. You'd have to work to try and avoid harsh lighting and shadows between the two flash units, but that might also look rather nice.
    • What are the largest prints that can be made from 35mm film?
      • Prints can be made as large you want. However, they will start to be grainy. On the other hand, medium format prints also get grainy when enlarged. I have run 11x14 prints from a cropped 35mm negative and been satisfied with the results (although I now get far better from my digital camera).
    • What lenses work the best for wedding photography?
      • It depends upon your style. A common lens is a 35-70. The biggest issue is often the maximum aperture available on the lens. Try to use lenses that have a max aperture of f2.8 or greater (yes, those lenses ARE more expensive - but they are worth it). A good selection of lenses that has worked well for me: 17-35 f2.8; 35-80 f2.8, and a 80-200 f2.8.
    • What film do you recommend for photographing weddings?
      • Almost any type should work fine - even consumer grade. However, it would be best to use Professional grade film - preferably Kodak Portra 160 NC or 400 NC, or Fuji NPS and NPH. These films have less contrast and will show more detail in the white wedding dress and black tuxedo than consumer film.
    • What type of digital camera should I buy?
      • If you are serious about photography, try to buy a DSLR. That way you will be able to purchase separate, high quality, lenses. A resolution of at least 4 megapixel is important. That's about all the specific advice I can give. Keep searching the web and make sure to visit  for detailed camera reviews.
    • How do I avoid harsh shadows when taking outdoor pictures?
      • As your photography improves you will quickly learn that the old adage, "shoot with the sun over your shoulder" is not a good rule to live by. The sun causes harsh shadows and lots of squinting. However, if you are serious about your photography you are going to have to deal with photos that are outdoors in the sun (at times). The best way to deal with that: practice (notice that bit of advice keeps coming up?). Use fill flash, reflectors, any nearby shade, and take a bunch of pictures. Write down your settings and see which ones look the best. Later, go out side and do it all again.
      • When I am outside I try to shoot on cloudy days or when the sun is setting (sunset is a wonderful time to take outdoor wedding portraits).
      • If you are out on a sunny day, most photographers will try to put the subjects into a shady area for photos. You'll have to keep an eye on the background to make sure it's not too bright for the shade you are using for your exposure.
      • Another option is to put the sun behind or perpendicular to your subjects and use fill flash to illuminate them. You might try using you camera in full auto mode while in the sun with -1 or -2 flash compensation. That is often what I'll use when I'm in the sun and experiencing constant light changes.
    • What is the best camera for wedding photography?
      • This is one of those questions that doesn't have any one "right" answer. The best camera will vary among wedding photographers - though there will be a variety of cameras that are being used at any one time. First issue would likely be what type of film format you are using: medium format, 35mm, or digital. One of the biggest issues to whether you have good camera is whether or not it is considered "professional". I'm not really familiar with medium format gear, but, as an example, will say that Nikon has a large variety of cameras. They consider their N90s, F100, F4, and F5 type cameras to be "professional". What makes them professional? More features, better manual control (along with all the automatic modes), and more rugged (the rugged part is very important). Granted, any SLR will likely be functional - especially if you know how to use it. On the other hand, if you have X dollars available, you might be better off buying two non professional cameras (like the n80) so you'll have a quality backup camera.
      • With digital cameras, a lot of professionals are using the digital SLR's: Nikon's D1x and Fuji's S2 (these are based on Nikon bodies - I'm not as familiar with the Canon line). Some even use the D100, but don't seem to be quite as pleased with it as compared to the S2's. If you are looking for "the best" wedding camera, do searches on the web and visit  to learn as much as possible about the camera you are considering - all the positive and negative points.
    • Should I use a filter during wedding photography?
      • I do not use any special effects filters for my wedding photography. I do have UV filters on each of my lenses, though their primary reason is to protect the front lens element on my lenses. In fact, whenever I buy a lens I ALWAYS buy a UV (clear) filter that is instantly put on the lens and never comes off. Filters are easy to replace - scratched lenses aren't.
      • A lot of wedding photography special effects have been overdone in the past: the "soft" focus picture, the "star effect" filter, etc. I shy away from some of those effects - though some people are able to effectively use them.
      • Photographers that use black and white film might want to consider the use of filters. Otherwise, a red flower might appear the exact same shade of gray as the green grass. Filters are used to darken the reds, or the greens, etc. Since I use a digital camera, I capture all data in color, and, later, I am able to selectively convert to black and white. At that time, I will tweak the saturation of reds, greens, and blues, to get a custom black and white file with far more flexibility than if I used film and filters. My What kind of flash do you use, and do you have any lighting tips?
      • For the portraits, I am currently using two Nikon SB80-dx's in manual mode (along with the camera being in manual exposure mode). I tried automatic some over the years but would never get consistent lighting (the men, in their tuxedos, always had more flash than the women, in their light colored dresses, did). My second light is usually on a light stand. At the rehearsal night I'll usually setup my lights and do the testing so I know exactly what to do on wedding day (plus, with digital, I can review the images on the screen as I setup).
      • For regular indoor (non-ceremony) lighting I use a basic and very gentle lighting approach. If there is one thing I do not like, it's the full blast, F11 flash with the black background and the harsh shadows that so many photographers used to use (and many still do!). I always try to bounce my flash off walls (or, if walls aren't available, ceilings). Otherwise, I'll point the flash head up with a diffuser on it and slow down the shutter speed. Because of the f2.8 lenses I use (often shooting at f2.8) and the D1x camera (which does an incredible job at ISO 400 and 800), I am usually shooting natural light with some fill-flash (though, again, it's never direct fill flash unless I'm outside). In fact, most indoor weddings I'm shooting ISO 400, f2.8, 1/60th with flash bounced off a wall (my Nikon SB80DXdx).
      • Make sure you do lots of practice with the lighting - it's a crucial part of the wedding photography.

    • Below the wedding photography books section, I have some links to some other wedding photography FAQ's that are online...

 

  • I recommend you buy at least one new wedding photography book for each wedding. I have setup a  page where link to some of the books I've bought over the years and provide feedback/reviews on which ones I feel are most beneficial.

Do you show your digital pictures at the wedding reception, for the guests to choose the photos they want?

  • I am not the type of photographer that shows or projects my photos at the reception for the guests to order prints. My view is that the reception is to celebrate the wedding, and it is not an opportunity for me to “peddle my wares” and try to make additional sales. During the reception I am completely focused on taking additional photos and it’s rather rare for me to sit down for a quick bite to eat or a short moment of rest. If I want to begin selling prints to guests I would do likely launch an e-commerce application on this site.